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Nitrates and Phosphates, Redfield ratio. HELP!! (1 Viewer)

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malira

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Like Motley Crue sang "I'm on my way, I'm on my way, Redfield ratio."

No?
Well last night I tested with a Hanna Phosphorus Checker.
Reading was 33 ppb which translates to .101 ppm.
I started with a dose 50 mls of phytofeast 10 days ago.Then I've been dosing 10 mls of phytofeast for 5 day now.

Andre (PSXerholic) tested the water initially and i had 2 ppb = .006 ppm.
PO4 from .006 to .101 ppm
NO3 from 8 to 3 ppm
Shooting for PO4 .2 to .3
and NO3 2 to 3
Here's the chart Andre shared with me.




redfield%20ratio_table.png
 

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Kingb4c0

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Like Motley Crue sang "I'm on my way, I'm on my way, Redfield ratio."

No?
Well last night I tested with a Hanna Phosphorus Checker.
Reading was 33 ppb which translates to .101 ppm.
I started with a dose 50 mls of phytofeast 10 days ago.Then I've been dosing 10 mls of phytofeast for 5 day now.

Andre (PSXerholic) tested the water initially and i had 2 ppb = .006 ppm.
PO4 from .006 to .101 ppm
NO3 from 8 to 3 ppm
Shooting for PO4 .2 to .3
and NO3 2 to 3
Here's the chart Andre shared with me.


2Q==

PO4 .2 to .3 or .02 to 0.03? .2 and .3 are really high numbers.
 

Kingb4c0

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PO4 .2 to .3 or .02 to 0.03? .2 and .3 are really high numbers.

Also don't use that chart as a model to follow to get your tank "balanced", it helps to understand the ratio but doesn't has any relevance to reef aquariums at all.

Here's a copy and paste from a r2r thread where someone posted it:
FWIW, I found that table by image search, and I just do not think it is supplying info the way folks may interpret it.
This blog discusses it in the context of freshwater planted aquaria, where the goal is to provide optimal inorganic nutrients to keep the plants thriving, and when they are thriving, this author believes there is less chance for problem algae in competition with the plants.


Redfield Ratio theorie: onzin of niet?



I highly recommend you to get a coffee mug, sit, relax and start reading the following articles:

Nitrate in the Reef Aquarium - REEFEDITION
Phosphate and the Reef Aquarium by Randy Holmes-Farley - Reefkeeping.com
https://www.soest.hawaii.edu/oceanography/courses/OCN623/Spring 2015/Salinity2015web.pdf
Reef Aquarium Water Parameters by Randy Holmes-Farley - Reefkeeping.com

And for your Bryopsis problems do the following:
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/bryopsis-cure-my-battle-with-bryopsis-using-fluconazole.285096/
If your total water volume is 90gal I will use 9x 200mg capsules, skimmer 0ff for 4-5 days, remove carbon, 20-25% water change after 14 days and add carbon for a day or 2. Enjoy watching the bryopsis melting away after the second day.

Happy reefing :wave:
 

malira

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According to the Redfield Ratio it's what is needed to achieve the proper balance.

I'm not saying that it's the only way to achieve what you want but this is the path I'm following.
I've seen the results of following this and I like them.
I am trying to achieve a tank I can be pleased with while using the least amount of chemicals. I'll have to test a lot at first but I think I can achieve simple, pleasant results with feeding. I'm not looking for wild colors.

Regular water changes to resupply trace elements and export waste.
Kalk+2 with a few trace elements.
Food for both nitrates and Phosphates.
Light skimming to remove some waste and aerate the water.
Micro Nano Bubbles for tank/coral health.
 

malira

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I don't think I have Bryopsis.

I know not every tank is going to respond the same. I need to get back to a healthy tank and then find my tanks sweetspot.

Thanks for the reading. I am finding out the more I learn about reef keeping the more I don't know. "It's a Journey, not a destination."
 

PSXerholic

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PO4 .2 to .3 or .02 to 0.03? .2 and .3 are really high numbers.

When Malira was over to discuss the issue with his tank and I was measuring his Potassium, he saw my tank.
At this point I was at 5-6ppm Nitrates and about 0.3 ppm Po4 with no significant algae issues anywhere.
When I was at 10ppm Nitrates with around 0.4-0.5ppm Po4 last winter, I did have no significant algae either,
and Reefaholic has seen in person when I popped huge bubble algae in the tank with no effect and no new algae.

I have a lot of trust into that table and I see when I drift off somewhere just by observing the tank.
If I do see odd things, I typically start measuring, like hairy algae on the overflow start becoming restricting flow, or a thin green layer of algae on the rock etc.

Mostly I'm then too low in Nitrates if that is the case, of course compared to the Po4 level on the Chart.
If I do see that I'm pretty much in the yellow area and still do see suspicious algae activity, I start looking on flow of pumps (pump failures), TDS of the RODI (which I screwed to replace the cartridge early enough multiple times last year), skimmer performance etc.

Also said, I do apply Carbon carefully once a while when the yellow becomes too strong, detoxify the tank here and there, and sometimes use GFO (try to avoid that !!!) to get silicates out after DI resin screwup's.
I feel (and read) a lot that Skimmer and bacteria do not take out all the waste that accumulates in the tank, therefore a clean up here and there is good practice and good for the tank.
I did notice also that high Po4 (0.1 and more) levels do make the SPS Coral skin thicker and less vibrant compared to lower levels.

BUT what I actually was trying to say is that remaining in the Ratio, does not guarantee an algae free tank !!!!!
We got to get rid of certain other organic and non organic waste still, that we do not remove with the filter system and method installed. I'm very convinced that, it is absolute important to keep a great diversity of bacteria strains in the tank since the different families and strains of bacteria prefer specific "waste" as their preferred food.

In the past the synonym monoculture was used, which I believe really means "limited cultures", which is a effect that I do see on Malira's tank at the moment. But that's IMO.

-Andre
 

Paul Buie

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Ah, the good Ole dry rock. I don't care where it comes from, every single rock should have "MUST soak out phosphates" engraved into it. Make no mistakes about it, if you used dry rock, and didn't soak out the phosphates, then that's 100% your issue. Soon your tank will be reading zero phosphates as the massive amount of hair algae takes over your rocks and starts consuming it before it can get into your water colum. At that point, GFO won't save you. Like I said, the algae will be growing right on the source and will consume the phosphates as they leach out.

Side note, any easy way to see if rock has phosphates bound to it is to scrape a little bit of the rock into your phosphate test kit tube. Let it soak for a few minutes before hand or shake it up to get it mixed around a bit. Use RO water for your sample or any water that has zero phosphates. If you run the test and phosphates show up, then bingo. There's your problem.

For what it is worth, I cycled dry Marco in a very large "horse trough", as my wife liked to call it (LOL), and tested for phosphates with the ULR for 3 weeks before I cycled it with shrimp. 0 phosphates after checking multiple times. I talked with Marco and apparently it is quarried out of a dry quarry, and not harvested out of the ocean and dried/cleaned. They told me it won't release anything. From what I understand, BRS Pukani is absolutely the worst for phosphates and dead organic growth in it. After I cycled the Marco rock in the tub, I transferred it into the DT. It was when I started up the tank and didn't want to deal with high NO3 / PO4 from cycling with shrimp in the DT.


Cheers!

PB
 
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