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Silicone? (1 Viewer)

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Carrie Jo

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Super fast question.... Before I buy more Silicone.... Is this a bad or not good enough brand of Silicone for a large tank (I really want the tank to be around for a long time)? I don't want to be buying more of it if it is not the one to be using. Really would suck to do all that work... and end up with a quick leak. The tank I bought that last 20 years I bought new when a friend's pet shop was going out of business 23 years ago. (leaked 2 years ago, bought in BC time, Before Children)


Second question if something else is better what is it and where would be the best place to order if from?




Bye the way thanks everyone for all the help on the other thread! I really appreciate all the advice.
 
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The best two strongest adhesives on the market are Momentive RTV 108 and SCS1200. RTV 108 has a Shear Strength of 200 psi, Tensile strength of 400 psi, and Peel Strength of 40 ppi. SCS1200 has a Shear of 110.8 psi, Tensile of 480 psi, and Peel of 61 ppi.
 
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One other thing I wanna note while on this subject. Make sure you get sealant that isn't expired. I got a hold of some bad silicone one time. Other things to consider i'll list below. One thing especially is that we don't lay 3-6mm beads down on aquariums. We use much thicker gobs of sealant. The cure time will be much longer. I would let big tanks cure for at least 2 weeks.

Higher temperatures and humidity will accelerate the cure process low temperatures and low humidity willslow the cure rate.As the adhesive sealant cures, acetic acid vapors are released from the sealant surface. The odor of aceticacid will completely disappear when curing is completed.A 3mm (1/8 in.) section of adhesive sealant will cure through in approximately 24 hours at 25°C (77°F) and50% R.H. Since cure time increases with thickness, use of these adhesive sealants should be limited tosection thicknesses of 6mm (1/4 in.) or less.Bond Strength DevelopmentIn addition to the effects of temperature and relative humidity, development of maximum bond strength willdepend on joint configuration, degree of confinement, sealant thickness and substrate porosity. Normally,sufficient bond strength will develop in 12 to 24 hours to permit handling of parts. Minimum stress should beapplied to the bonded joint until full adhesive strength is developed. Eventually the adhesive strength of thebond will exceed the cohesive strength of the silicone rubber sealant itself. Always allow maximum cure timeavailable for best results.
 
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Carrie Jo

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One other thing I wanna note while on this subject. Make sure you get sealant that isn't expired. I got a hold of some bad silicone one time. Other things to consider i'll list below. One thing especially is that we don't lay 3-6mm beads down on aquariums. We use much thicker gobs of sealant. The cure time will be much longer. I would let big tanks cure for at least 2 weeks.

Higher temperatures and humidity will accelerate the cure process low temperatures and low humidity willslow the cure rate.As the adhesive sealant cures, acetic acid vapors are released from the sealant surface. The odor of aceticacid will completely disappear when curing is completed.A 3mm (1/8 in.) section of adhesive sealant will cure through in approximately 24 hours at 25°C (77°F) and50% R.H. Since cure time increases with thickness, use of these adhesive sealants should be limited tosection thicknesses of 6mm (1/4 in.) or less.Bond Strength DevelopmentIn addition to the effects of temperature and relative humidity, development of maximum bond strength willdepend on joint configuration, degree of confinement, sealant thickness and substrate porosity. Normally,sufficient bond strength will develop in 12 to 24 hours to permit handling of parts. Minimum stress should beapplied to the bonded joint until full adhesive strength is developed. Eventually the adhesive strength of thebond will exceed the cohesive strength of the silicone rubber sealant itself. Always allow maximum cure timeavailable for best results.
Okay are you suggesting I buy the scs1200 for putting the tank pieces together and something different for the inner seal?

Bye the way thanks guys for all the quick replies I was able to cancel the silicone I ordered in time. I would much rather do this right because I want to have this tank for a long time. It will probably be my last tank. I guess that is why I am trying to make this one work I really like the shape of it, the fact the glass part at least is only 24" high and it (to me at least gives the illusion of a larger tank.)

I am trying to figure out the "how many tubes to buy" and of what. While I don't mind having one or 2 ordered that aren't needed in case something goes wrong or I use to much than not enough in the middle of it. I still need to scrap off the excess of the inside but I am trying to decide if I should just take it all the way apart now so I can clean it up good and make sure I only need one pane of glass. Too bad one can't find the curved glass cheap and easy.

I called a friend of a friend to get a price quote. (Waiting to hear back) Going to see if I can possibly find out who the company my son works for orders from but didn't get that done today. Will see if I scream when I hear the price.

Why did they stop making this size aquarium? Is there something I don't know? They still make smaller ones 54 gallon but not these dementions for a 92 gallon in glass. No offense acrylic lovers out there but acrylic is CRAZY expensive tanks! Plus I feel better I think glass scratches less and worried about the discoration in time from lights heat etc.
 
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Don't want to hurt your feelings, but you really shouldn't try to fix this tank. This will not be a simple task. 92/G isn't a small tank and if you haven't done it before with smaller sizes, you will be wasting your time. Too many things can go wrong. You have to be fast or the sealant will skin. Seams need to be within a certain mm of thickness. SCS and RTV are much harder to work with than the lower grade sealants. Glass companies require a minimal order. To get a piece of glass the size you need with beveled edges, you're looking at $200 or more. I already told you that you can buy a brand new tank for that price. I know you like that tank, but you need to sell it as is and buy a new one. If you try to fix it, you will likely have water in your living-room later down the road. Tanks never fail in the beginning, it's always a few years later. On top of all this, you will pay a lot for the silicone itself. You'll need about 5 or more tubes to do a good job. That's $50 plus $200 for the tank. So you're already at $250. Then you'll need razor blades, paper towels, tape, acetone, etc. Now you're up to $300. Guess how much a new standard 90/G Costs??
 

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It is doable, but I would suggest try on a smaller one first. I have a 40g breeder you can have to practice on. The silicon will skin in 10 minutes. You have 10 min from when the first bit comes out to finished. You also need a flat surface. Not just kinda flat. It needs to be perfect. When you buy glass it does get expensive. These glass companies won't mess with oddball orders unless they make a nice profit.

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reefling

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I know someone who is selling a very nice 90g. He said the stand was super expensive. It is show quality and he said he would take 350. That should give an idea of the market. My first tank in saltwater was a 92g corner. I quickly went with something else. They are hard to light, and you can fit the same amount of livestock in a well planned 40g breeder. The tank is only 3ft wide. They are beautiful, but I don't think I would do one again.

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Carrie Jo

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It is doable, but I would suggest try on a smaller one first. I have a 40g breeder you can have to practice on. The silicon will skin in 10 minutes. You have 10 min from when the first bit comes out to finished. You also need a flat surface. Not just kinda flat. It needs to be perfect. When you buy glass it does get expensive. These glass companies won't mess with oddball orders unless they make a nice profit.

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I would love to take you up on this but I have no idea how far away you are? Is it near 290 and hwy6 or further? It would be good practice to get an better idea. I should have kept the 29 gallon octagon I had for 20 years and tried it on it. Watching tons of stuff on you tube only gets you so far. It is the doing that gets you the skill. And would be good to have an idea of where the skill or lack there of is in me.

I am mulling things over. I appreciate everyone's help, ideas, and honest opinions. I will let you guys know what happens as soon as I know.

Thanks again everyone!!!
 

reefling

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I would love to take you up on this but I have no idea how far away you are? Is it near 290 and hwy6 or further? It would be good practice to get an better idea. I should have kept the 29 gallon octagon I had for 20 years and tried it on it. Watching tons of stuff on you tube only gets you so far. It is the doing that gets you the skill. And would be good to have an idea of where the skill or lack there of is in me.

I am mulling things over. I appreciate everyone's help, ideas, and honest opinions. I will let you guys know what happens as soon as I know.

Thanks again everyone!!!
I am by 521 and hwy 6. The guy selling the 90g show tank is by meyerland somewhere.

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reefling

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Yes I just saw it. Does look like a nice tank and set up. Just don't want to give up.
If you have not had a 92g corner before, I can tell you they lose their appeal fast. You cannot fit a nice size sump underneath it. I had a 15g sump. I had my rock like an amphitheater. Lengthwise, you have about 4.5ft, but when stuff starts to grow out, it gets really tightly packed. Flow is hard to do right. Unless you get custom lights, you will have shadows. You can fit the same stuff in a 40g breeder that fits in a 92. It's only 3ft from corner to corner. I learned these things the hard way. If you expect these things going into it, you will be fine. The corner tanks look amazing. Just know what you are in for. Best of luck with whatever you decide!

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Diesel

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I plan on visiting CJ on Tuesday to put my eyes on this tank in order to make a game plan.
Already set my mind on to make it work for her.
Talked to a few ppl and all are on board to Donate some stuff (Eheim filter, driftwood, substrate, plants etc)
Once I have the tank leak free and sealed with the silicone she already purchased which is good enough and more than enough to do it right I will Aquascape this the tank as a great freshwater setup for her.
 

reefling

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I plan on visiting CJ on Tuesday to put my eyes on this tank in order to make a game plan.
Already set my mind on to make it work for her.
Talked to a few ppl and all are on board to Donate some stuff (Eheim filter, driftwood, substrate, plants etc)
Once I have the tank leak free and sealed with the silicone she already purchased which is good enough and more than enough to do it right I will Aquascape this the tank as a great freshwater setup for her.
Freshwater would be easy. I thought it was going to be a reef.

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Aqueon, said they do not use GE silicone, turned out they were using Momentive RTV100 series (formerly GE.) Publicly they claim to be using their branded silicone to build their large tanks, (on the label) buzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz wrong.


I would not use aqueon silicone for a few reasons:


1. They lied
2. "Their brand" is unpublished - no info as to what the PSI, Peel, and Tensil strength are. You already know when things are "unpublished" it typically means the company is not proud. It's probably low grade junk! Otherwise the data sheets would be out there with the rest of the higher end sealants.
3. I don't trust them.


You've been warned!


If you find the public MSDS please post it here. I'm not interested in what they have told anybody over the phone.

Anything over 75/G there's only 2 sealants I trust.

1. Momentive 100 Series (RTV 108)
2. GE SCS1200 Series

 
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