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Chris' 90 Gallon Build & New to Reefing (2 Viewers)

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The guy on Craigslist is legit. He was recommended to me when I bought my 210 by a LFS. If I had heeded his advice I could have avoided repairing a center brace while the tank was running. He has done hundreds of reseals. It probably took a few hours to strip the silicone- not days. If you use a solvent and fine grit sand paper, it goes by extremely quick if the prep work with a razor was done right.

I can promise you that 1 week cure time for this time of year or any other is not legit. Scraping 3 48" panels and 2 18" side panels takes a lot more than two hours if done right.
 
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OK you win. I don't feel like arguing.

I'm glad, because I don't either.

FYI..."Minimal" cure time for the (nessessary cross-linking to occur) is 7 days. Keep in mind, this is with small beads of silicone- not the gobs used to do a complete reseal job. Also to clarify, the cure time for silicone is relative to both temperature and humidity. This time of year is not a good time to try and squeak by with very little cure time.
 
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I'm glad, because I don't either.

FYI..."Minimal" cure time for the (nessessary cross-linking to occur) is 7 days. Keep in mind, this is with small beads of silicone- not the gobs used to do a complete reseal job. Also to clarify, the cure time for silicone is relative to both temperature and humidity. This time of year is not a good time to try and squeak by with very little cure time.

So what about just leaving it there and allowing it to cure for longer?
 
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I appreciate the input from both you btw! :) I asked the guy about the curing time and here is what he said...

"He's correct as far as a full 100% cure, if it sitting outside the whole time you'd want to wait 2 to 3 weeks. But I mean I doubt that person took into consideration that the tank will be sitting on a stand inside which a week and a half is plenty of time for silicone to cure." So he is agreeing with you, and said once I get it home I should let it cure for an additional week and a half..and he still thinks I should wait until this weekend to pick it up.
 
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He also said "It's rtv not just normal silicone. Most like momentive will cure in about 2 to 3 day ranges from 75 to 80 degrees @ 40% to 50% humidity."


You can look at all the specs on multiple brands of silicone. The cure times, tensile strength, bond development, bond strength, etc. and most (if not all) are referring to a small sealant thickness of only 3mm to 6mm or 1/8" - 1/4" bead sizes. Wait at least two weeks. Joint configuration is super important, but degree of confinement is important too. Trust me on this. Keep the tank there and don't move it. No need to rush things. There's plenty of other stuff to do during the wait time.
 

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You can look at all the specs on multiple brands of silicone. The cure times, tensile strength, bond development, bond strength, etc. and most (if not all) are referring to a small sealant thickness of only 3mm to 6mm or 1/8" - 1/4" bead sizes. Wait at least two weeks. Joint configuration is super important, but degree of confinement is important too. Trust me on this. Keep the tank there and don't move it. No need to rush things. There's plenty of other stuff to do during the wait time.

That is what I will do then, thanks for the advice. And you are right, I am not in any hurry...I still need to piece together the plumbing and figure out this RO/DI Unit haha.

He sent me a few pics he took during the tear down...he is going to take a few more pics when he gets back tonight of the completed reseal.

https://imgur.com/a/usNtt
 
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Seems to have a legit little web page. I've never seen it before. I wonder how long he's been in business? The big question is....what forums does he frequent and what is his board name?

So far...he's got 4 positives for me.

1. Uses RTV 100 series.
2. Has what seems to be legit website. Small but legit.
3. Documents his work.
4. The work he's doing is at a rock bottom price.

I'm sorry...I'm very skeptical of anybody on Craigslist until I see proof if their work or know their reputation. Stinky saltwater on the livingroom floor doesn't sit well with most wife's! Lol

Keep us updated with pics.
 
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Seems to have a legit little web page. I've never seen it before. I wonder how long he's been in business? The big question is....what forums does he frequent and what is his board name?

So far...he's got 4 positives for me.

1. Uses RTV 100 series.
2. Has what seems to be legit website. Small but legit.
3. Documents his work.
4. The work he's doing is at a rock bottom price.

I'm sorry...I'm very skeptical of anybody on Craigslist until I see proof if their work or know their reputation. Stinky saltwater on the livingroom floor doesn't sit well with most wife's! Lol

Keep us updated with pics.
Haha I definitely understand that, and I have hardwood flooring! He is going to try to take more pics for me tonight of the completed work. One he does that, I will post them here!

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 
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Back to the topic of plumbing, I have been putting together a list on BulkReefSupply and have come up with the following....any suggestions on what else I might need for a herbie overflow and the return?


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Ditch the check, imo...It'll fail when you need it most. Don't rely on it to prevent your sump from over filling.
 
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Ditch the check, imo...It'll fail when you need it most. Don't rely on it to prevent your sump from over filling.

I agree with below radar, I have good quality check valves myself and none of them fully work. I have one just above the outlet on my return pump and one on each return just after the bulkhead and 90 elbow going down to sump.

All three will not hold the water if it's been a long enough time.

I do like the fact that for short periods of time (like feeding) it keeps the back siphoning to a minimal and allows my system to start up better. Other than that, they get dirty and will not fully close.
 
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